Exfoliation is my Winter Therapy
Winter has been hitting me hard this year! Cracked, dry lips, frizzy hair, rough skin, and we are
still right smack dab in the middle of a pandemic. As if the cold winds, rainy weather, dreary
days aren't enough to bum you out when winter strikes, your skin looking like a reptile will throw
your game off for sure!
I have always loved the feeling of decluttering my home with a swift drop off at Goodwill. Or the
satisfying feeling after a yard sale empties your yard of oddments that were previously
cherished and later left collecting dust. “Getting rid of” is just a good feeling. To feel lighter. To
feel refreshed, and renewed. Sloughing away my dead, rough, dry winter skin gives me that
same sense of renewal, and “lightness”. I feel as though I am getting rid of that which no longer
serves me. Methods of exfoliation have changed a lot over the years, and come a long way from
Native Americans scrubbing away at their bodies with dried corn cobs, or Europeans bathing in
stale red wine due to its naturally occurring alpha hydroxy acid content. Today while homemade
and store bought gritty scrubs are still incredibly popular because many people like the way they
feel being massaged onto the skin, chemical and enzyme exfoliants are also very popular due
to their high efficacy, and ability to exfoliate without irritating. It is important to think about skin
sensitivity, allergies, ingredients, and ease of use when selecting the best exfoliation for your
face, or body. Let’s talk about a few commonly used methods.
Exfoliating the Body
Loofah- Loofah sponges are natural and rough and made from dried gordes. They are a popular
shower accessory for those with rough skin, and have been used for centuries. These are a bit
rough and I definitely would not recommend using on the delicate skin of the face, however they
can give a lovely glow to tougher skin areas of the body. Loofahs should be replaced regularly
however as the nooks and crannies of the organic material can be a safe haven for bacterial
growth.
Pumice- An oldie but goody! My 6 year old daughter just asked me the other day why her feet
were “scratchy”, and I taught her about using the pumice stone in the shower! Pumice is formed
when water, gases, and molten rock cool together during volcanic eruptions. Remember stone
washed jeans? Pumice is the stone used to create that textured look! Pumice is most often
rubbed vigorously on coarse heels, and calloused toes to remove dry, dead skin and make feet
feel softer. Because of its porous texture, pumice can also trap dirt, and harbor bacteria so it's
important to remember to replace regularly. Pumice is a very rugged stone, and for that I reason
I do not recommend its use anywhere else on the body other than the feet.
Salt and Sugar Scrubs- These are some of my quick and easy fav’s because you can usually whip
them up in a minute or so with ingredients from your kitchen. Salt scrubs are usually best on
really tough skin such as feet, elbows, knees, or anywhere else that may feel like sandpaper,
because salts are naturally drying and detoxifying. Furthermore since salts can typically be
purchased in different textures you can choose how rough you want your scrub to be, from
super fine, flaked, course, or extra course. Sugar scrubs are awesome on lips, or other more
sensitive skin that still needs a good scrub. To make simple scrubs in your kitchen, start with
simply the salt or sugar of your choice, then add an oil. Coconut Oil is my go to, as I like that it
melts at a higher temperature so holds the consistency better, however olive oil, or avocado are
also good. Slowly add in some honey to help with consistency (and honey is very beneficial for
your skin). And viola, scrub on, rinse off, hello softer skin! When I am making a scrub specifically
for my lips, I usually add in about 1⁄8 teaspoon of vanilla extract, and a pinch of pumpkin pie
spice or apple pie spice, that way if I accidentally get some in my mouth, I get a pleasant
surprise.
Exfoliating the Face
Retinols, Retinoids, or other Vitamin A derivatives- Vitamin A has been a popular ingredient used to
ward off wrinkles, dry up acne, and is often praised as the gold standard in skincare by
dermatologists and estheticians alike. Vitamin A is used to make the popular prescription drugs
Retin- A, and Accutane (both of which have many other generic versions), it is also used in
many over the counter night creams, serums, scrubs, treatment oils, and cleansers. Old
Mechanicsville Health Spas Matrix Oil is an effective retinol in a gentle non comedogenic argan
oil base, making it a great topical exfoliant for hormonal acne, and fine lines on even the most
sensitive skin. While Vitamin A is a highly effective skincare ingredient it must be avoided during
pregnancy and breastfeeding.
Glycolic Acid- Glycolic Acid is a naturally occuring acid derived from sugarcane. Glycolic is an
excellent exfoliant that is usually best for ageing skin. It can also be used for acneic skin,
depending on the cause of the acne. It can be drying, so for that reason it is best avoided on
hypersensitive skin types. Glycolic acid can be found as an active ingredient in cleansers, pads,
scrubs, serums, masks, and moisturizers. Since I am pregnant with my 3rd child, retinoids are a
no go for me, and glycolics have become my go to. I currently use Skin Script glycolic cleanser
daily, and Old Mechanicsville Health Spas glycolic moisturizing cream nightly.
Enzymes- I love, love, love me some enzymes. If I could afford it I would slather my whole body
in these fruity, gooey goodies almost everyday! Enzymes occur naturally in papayas, pineapple,
pumpkin, and other plants. I like enzymes so much because they actually digest dead skin,
while not bothering with live skin at all, so you get the WOW factor effect without a lot of
downtime. The redness caused by enzymes typically goes away within a few hours of treatment
for most people, but can last about 24 hours on more sensitive skin types. Enzymes are my
favorite treatment for sun damaged skin because with the right enzyme you can visually see a
brightening effect after the first session, and over time can decrease the hyper pigmentation on
most clients. You can have a stronger enzyme treatment performed professionally in office, but
we also sell enzymes for at home use in the form of scrubs, and treatment masks.
Scrubs- The scrubs typically sold for your face usually use much gentler “grit” than the scrubs
sold for other parts of the body. Some common particles used in scrubs for the face are jojoba
beads, oat flour, almond meal, sugar, bentonite clay, and finely ground pumice. Some people
tolerate physical scrubs very well, while others do not tolerate gritty scrubs at all. If you know
scrubs turn you bright red, maybe try a chemical exfoliant such as an acid or enzyme instead.
There are many other exfoliant options out there, I just listed my personal favorites here. Please
talk to your dermatologist, or esthetician to determine what options are best for you. Stay
smooth!
April 2021 Cover Story
